Contentment thy name is Tecolote Beach. Sunshine is bursting out of every pore of the earth here in this dream-like heaven that lies gently and white sanded on tranquil blue waters. Except for my obvious self, the owner of this small tiki bar and his affectionate and adorable Pete-y look alike of a dog are the only other ones here. I grab a $3 22oz beer and go to sit under one of several thatch umbrellas and enjoy the absolute human silence and plug into the sounds of nature. It is hypnotic and unreal here. This place is everything that hurting, stressed, worried, and under slept people should go to cure their ills because it is everything that is opposite. The sea is a calming background symphony that's variation of pale green, to light turquoise, to deep blue sets all fires inside to cool. A small cliff juts out at the end of the beach creating a cove-like privacy. Seagulls hover above shallow fish and I motion my new canine friend to come over so I can pet him. He has a dog grin on his face and rests at my feet licking them and sprawling out in the shade while I scratch his belly. Warming up in the rising sun, I decide it is a good idea to go for a swim. Several people have warned me of sting rays in the area so I carefully walk into the surprisingly cold water and submerse myself in the refreshing baptism. Life is good. This is good and all that is right with the world. I cannot imagine why anyone would try to venture to anywhere else knowing this existed. I am sad I am just discovering this but all the more motivated to make my way back.
Today I began my day on Alvaro Obregon, which is the main street on the waterfront in La Paz. It is another bright and sun soaked experience, the waters of the ocean aqua and moving slight waves not too far from the store fronts. The morning breezes were still cool in their breath before the impending doom of the rising heat. Shop owners twisted keys into locked doors and aluminum gates swung open for visitors. The local street merchants hung colorfully woven woolen blankets for tourists to buy for their imaginary donkeys back home. Fake silver bangles clanged in the last of the morning breezes while tiny taco stands sold delicious corn tortillas with seasoned beef and fresh salsas for a dollar. An old man with a large fanny pack walked by me with two racks of bracelets and necklaces for sale and I politely declined his lifted display. I gathered my things after my morning coffee to drive up the coast in La Paz for some rest and relaxation alone. I made the right decision and so fortunate to not only see this beautiful landscape but to meet its very friendly inhabitants.
The Sierra De La Laguna Mountain range is the only mountain range to speak of, though desert cliffs and dramatic clay-like ledges rise out of the beautiful waters in stark red and sand colored contrast to the clear cobalt hue of the ocean. I cannot help but compare it to the geography of the coast of Egypt and maybe that is why I feel so much at home here, reminded of my childhood on the Red Sea. The ocean life is spectacular with seasonal visits from a variety of whale species, whale sharks, seals, and a vast spectrum of fish and dolphins. Due to the local school for marine biology, so many of the people I have had the pleasure to talk to have a passion for these creatures and for their conservation. It is sadly being threatened by human impact, commercial fishing, and pollution due to the dewatering of freshwater sources like the Colorado River. However, it is still bursting with life in a way I haven't seen since my childhood with rays sticking wings in the air and jumping out of the water, sea lions galore spawning new baby pups each season, bull sharks returning to the protected waters of Espiritu Santo, and schools of colorful Jacks and fat Parrot Fish munching away on corral. I have never felt so moved towards a cause of conservation as I have in working here. I imagine it would be very difficult for anyone to feel otherwise once experiencing this beauty.
Finally in my travels I am truly feeling content and satiated. The term "save the best for last" could not be truer . Of all the places in Latin America…and possibly the world…this is the one I like best. I find myself entertaining thoughts of a future life here. I picture myself joining the locals walking to work each day and resting in the cooling evening sunsets. La Paz…The Peace…could not be more appropriately named. It is a beautiful coastal town with raging hot days and beautifully breezy cool nights. It is dry and quiet, simple but special in a spiritual and secret way I struggle to name, almost as if I am not meant to. It just
is. To be here is to feel that something magical and comforting walks beside you. It is the simple and pure life. Once again…man…I have SO MUCH to be grateful for.
No comments:
Post a Comment